So adroit is Jayson Grossberg at crafting captivating soup, he named his whimsical Audubon, N.J., restaurant after it. Served in a mod square bowl, the roasted acorn squash is silky, delicate and the eye-catching orange-amber shade of autumn. More importantly, the soup is not too sweet, as squash/pumpkin/sweet potato soups tend to be. Rather, the balance of natural sugar and cream is right on. Sitting in the middle of the pancetta-studded puree like an island, a plump scallop is perfectly pan-seared.

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